It wasn't a fancy hotel or health spa – in fact, it was the exact opposite, as my destination was St. Patrick's Purgatory, Lough Derg.
I'd been a number of times before, but I last made the pilgrimage nearly 20 years ago and in the intervening period, I'd always found an excuse not to return. This year, however was different as I once again felt drawn to the little Donegal island which has been a place of pilgrimage for more than one thousand years. So, when my brother and cousin announced it was time for their annual 'boys' weekend' to Lough Derg, I asked if I could tag along.

We arrived at the island around lunchtime last Friday, although it didn't really matter that it was lunchtime as we had been fasting from 12 midnight on Thursday - the obligatory start to the three day pilgrimage to Lough Derg. I noticed immediately that things were different from my last visit - there's a modern new visitor centre at the pier and two motor boats were waiting to take pilgrims on to the island - last time I'd had to make the trip on a smaller open decked boat - not very reassuring when you later learn that a number of pilgrims had once drowned making the short sea trip to the island.

Thankfully we arrived safely and I soon discovered more changes - a major building and refurbishment project has been undertaken and the island buildings appeared less austere and more welcoming than I'd remembered. This false sense of security didn't last long however when I was directed to the women's dormitory to deposit my bag, shoes and socks - walking barefoot is another pilgrimage requirement - before beginning the first of the nine 'Stations' which have to be completed over the three day pilgrimage.

Most of the Stations are undertaken outdoors, walking around the penitential beds, a circular arrangement of stones - shrines to Irish Saints - in the centre of the island. I soon discovered that these stones were as sore on my bare feet as I'd remembered and when it started raining as we completed the last of the three Stations which had to be undertaken that day, the stones also became slippery to negotiate.

Dry bread

The reward for completing the Stations was the one Lough Derg 'meal' which is allowed each day. The 'meal' consists of black tea or coffee and dry toast/oatcakes/wheaten bread - not terribly appetizing, but with the meal now being served in a bright new dining room instead of the pokey, smoke filled room previously used, it didn't actually taste too bad.

With our hunger eased it was time to make our way to the Basilica for the 6.30pm Mass where new pilgrims were welcomed to Lough Derg by the Prior Monsignor Richard Mohan. There we met up with the bleary-eyed pilgrims who had arrived on the island the day before us and were nearing the end of their 24 hour vigil. Some were almost asleep on their feet and they all had pity for those of us about to embark on the vigil.

The next pilgrimage exercise was Night Prayer and Benediction before our vigil began at 10pm. It was easy to distinguish between pilgrimage first timers and those who had been to Lough Derg before - first timers were dressed in the same light clothing they had been wearing earlier in the day - those of us who knew better had added numerous extra layers - a fleece, a heavy coat, leg warmers and a hat - while the real Lough Derg veterans were also armed with insect repellent and wearing net hats and scarves - Lough Derg midges are among the worst in Ireland.

We were wished well on our vigil by Monsignor Eoin Thynne, who was helping out on Lough Derg from his usual posting as chaplain to the Irish Defence Forces. He hoped we would make the best of the opportunity we had given ourselves to take time out from the grind of daily living and that our pilgrimage hopes and aspirations would be realised. He finished by paraphrasing the words of Jesus to the Apostles - "I'm now going somewhere you can't follow - to bed!".

All night vigil

The all night vigil begins with the public recitation of the Rosary in the Basilica followed by the communal saying of four Stations. Although these Stations are said inside the Basilica they are no less gruelling than those done outside on the penitential beds. With almost 200 people walking around the inside of the church repeating the same prayers over and over again, exhaustion, cold and hunger soon kick in, as the night wears on. The monotony of the continual repetition of the same prayers makes it easy to fall asleep and most pilgrims need a gentle poke in the ribs at some stage during the night when they can't resist the temptation to nod off.

In the half hour between each overnight Station, pilgrims can walk around outside the Basilica or find solace in the night shelter. The new night shelter is much more welcoming than the old one was and pilgrims mingled easily, chatting and exchanging stories about their own Lough Derg experiences. There are also newspapers and magazines to read and I was pleased to see evidence of a strong contingent of Derry pilgrims with more than a few copies of Friday's 'Derry Journal' being passed around.

The night seemed never ending but once the new day dawned, we knew the worst was over and we were all in better form when the bell rang for the 6.30am Mass. After Mass we celebrated the Sacrament of Reconciliation and then did the only outdoor Station which had to be undertaken that day. I could have cried when we left the Basilica to find it was raining. We had then to decide whether to go ahead in the rain, wait until later, when it might dry up, or, if the rain got heavier, risk getting drenched. We decided to go ahead, negotiating the by now slippy, damp stones on the penitential beds and the swarm of midges who obviously felt we hadn't suffered enough penance the night before.

The rest of the day was long - very long - and we found it increasingly hard to keep awake in between the pilgrimage exercises of Renewal of Baptisimal Promises and the Way of the Cross. Around midday, despite more rain, I took a perverse delight in heading to the pier to see new pilgrims arriving on the island - not a very Christian act I know, in the middle of a pilgrimage, but it made me feel better, knowing what lay ahead of them. In the early afternoon I had my second Lough Derg 'meal', but this time the smell of the strong black tea and coffee hadn't the same appeal as the previous day.

Time for bed

After 6.30pm Mass and then Night Prayer and Benediction, at last it was 10pm and our 24 hour vigil was finally over. There was a stampede to the dormitories and, surprisingly, for a large group of women, there was very little chit chat as we all clambered, exhausted, into our tiny bunk beds. I felt I had only closed my eyes when the buzzer sounded at 6am the following morning, but buoyed by a good night's sleep, my bare feet had a spring in their step as I made my way to morning Mass. No longer tired and cold, I wasn't bothered by hunger as I completed my last outdoor Station and then it was time to return to the dormitory to pick up my belongings and delight in being able to put my shoes and socks on again.

Lough Derg is synonymous with hardship and personal challenge yet it attracts pilgrims from all over Ireland and much further afield. Last weekend's pilgrims included groups from London and Birmingham as well as a few from America.

There are people of all ages and backgrounds, but what they have in common is the fact that they all have decided to remove themselves from the hassles and stresses of everyday living and spend some time with God, thinking and praying. Mobile phones, iPods, computer games and radios are not allowed on the island – there are none of the distractions of modern life – instead there is time for prayer and personal reflection.

The reasons people go to Lough Derg are as varied as their backgrounds – some come to pray for family members who are sick or to give thanks for a relative's recovery from illness, some are coping with family problems or difficult relationships and others are trying to cope with the pain of bereavement. Among those I met was a woman who was making the pilgrimage for her 26 years-old niece who is terminally ill and another woman who was there with her two daughters to give thanks for her husband's recovery from illness.

Whatever their reason, the pilgrims journey together over the three days and help each other through the long all night vigil and the pilgrimage fast.

Monsignor Thynne came to the pier to wish us well as we waited for the boat to begin our journey homeward. It's said that if you look back at Lough Derg as you leave, you'll return to the island - I didn't - but that's not to say I won't be back.

The Lough Derg theme for 2008 is 'Bringing You The Gift of Hope' – and that's a gift most of us could do with in this troubled world. So, if you're planning a few days away this summer and really want to get away from it all, why not consider paying a visit to Lough Derg – you'll be taking a trip you're unlikely to ever forget.

In addition to the 3 day traditional three day pilgrimage, Lough Derg also offers one day retreats, youth and school treats and special family days. Details of the full Lough Derg programme can be found on the website www.lough derg.org or by telephone on 0035371 9861518.